When people get permanent makeup (PMU), whether it's for brows, eyeliner, or lips, they expect their new look to stay true to colour for a long time. However, as time passes, it’s not uncommon for the colour to shift. Sometimes, what was once a perfect brow shade may develop a warmer or cooler undertone. So, why does this happen?
1. Pigment Composition
Permanent makeup pigments are created by blending different colour molecules to achieve a desired shade. Over time, these molecules may fade at different rates, leading to a shift in the undertone. Here's how it works:
Warm Pigments: Pigments that contain more red, orange, or yellow tones tend to fade faster, especially in sun-exposed areas. As they fade, cooler tones like blue or grey may start to dominate, causing the overall look to cool down.
Cool Pigments: Pigments with more blue or grey in them can shift to warmer hues as the cooler molecules break down over time, leaving behind red or yellow tones. This is particularly common with eyebrow tattoos or permanent eyeliner.
2. Skin’s Natural Undertones
Each person’s skin has natural undertones, either warm, cool, or neutral. These undertones can influence how the pigment is perceived over time:
Warm undertones (yellow, peach, golden): May cause pigments to lean warmer after healing and over time.
Cool undertones (pink, red, blue): Can make pigments appear cooler.
As your skin regenerates and interacts with the pigment, the undertone of the healed result may shift, particularly as the pigment fades.
3. Environmental Factors
Sun exposure plays a major role in how pigments age. Ultraviolet (UV) rays can break down pigment molecules, speeding up fading and causing colour shifts. In warmer climates or areas where skin is exposed to the sun often, pigments may appear to fade faster and change tone more noticeably.
Warm climate and sun exposure: Can accelerate fading, often leaving a cooler hue behind.
Cold climate: Pigment breakdown can be slower, but environmental stress still plays a role over time.
4. Skin's Natural Healing Process
As the skin heals after a PMU procedure, it encapsulates the pigment. During this process, the body’s immune system may gradually break down the pigment over the years, contributing to a colour shift.
In addition to this natural breakdown, some pigment can be pushed deeper into the skin, where it may take on a cooler, bluish appearance. This is particularly true for eyeliner, where pigment placed too deeply can result in an ashy or cool tone over time.
5. Body Chemistry
Each person’s body chemistry, including pH levels and the oils your skin produces, can affect how pigments age. Oilier skin types often cause pigments to fade faster, which can lead to cooler undertones surfacing sooner.
Oily skin: The pigments can break down more quickly, and the skin's oils may influence how pigments oxidize and fade, sometimes causing cooler tones to emerge.
Dry skin: Fades pigment more slowly but can still experience warmth or coolness as pigments shift.
6. Technique and Depth of Application
The depth at which pigment is implanted can also affect how it ages. If pigments are implanted too deeply, they may migrate and take on a cooler tone over time (like a bluish hue for eyeliner or eyebrows). On the other hand, pigments implanted too superficially may fade quickly and lean warmer.
Can You Prevent Warm or Cool Colour Shifts in Permanent Makeup?
While some colour changes are inevitable due to the natural aging process of the pigment, there are steps you can take to ensure your permanent makeup stays looking its best:
Choose the right pigment: Work with an experienced permanent makeup artist who understands how different pigments will interact with your skin's undertones over time.
Regular touch-ups: To maintain the desired colour and counteract any shifting, schedule touch-ups every 1-2 years.
Sun protection: Always apply sunscreen to your PMU areas to minimise UV exposure and prevent premature fading and colour shifts.
Good skincare: Proper skincare, including avoiding harsh chemicals and exfoliants on PMU areas, can help prolong the life and colour of your makeup.
Conclusion
The shifting tones in permanent makeup—whether it becomes warmer or cooler—are a natural part of how pigments age. This is influenced by the original pigment composition, your skin’s undertone, environmental factors, and the application technique. By understanding these factors, you can manage expectations and work with your PMU artist to ensure your look stays beautiful for years to come.
Do you have permanent makeup that has changed colour over time? Speak with our permanent makeup artist Rachael for advice on whether your existing colour can be adjusted or whether you may need permanent makeup removal.
We are a permanent makeup clinic based in Tunbridge Wells, Kent. We offer microblading, powder brows, hairstroke brows, combination brows, eyeliner and lip blush.
Comments